Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this time-honored city is no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its essence: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their younger generation are reluctant to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these narratives and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
